Thursday, 15 July 2010

Kylie Stylee

We've got the style of a pop icon down to a tee!




African summer - a heat wave from the outset.  Indian summer - a belated heat wave setting in close to the autumn when you thought all hope was gone for the present year.  British summer - disappointing, rainy and chronically overrated  misnomer scheduled between May and September, for which we wistfully brave the punishing elements in shorts and t-shirts, as if it genuinely were 3o degrees in the shade... or is it?  Not if this year's anything to go by.  Perhaps, then, there is a God, who acknowledged that we are still plodding our way out of recession and have had all manner of travel impediments, most of them involving volcanic ash clouds, so he/she gave us a jolly nice summer, right here, on our blessed homeland.  It's been uncanny.  It's worked out much cheaper than a holiday, not to mention less hassle, and the first time, since pa fell off the bus, that I can grace fair England's streets in a summer frock without feeling like a human experiment for outdoor cryogenics.  Oh, what it is to step out in style, and to step out of the tawdry British tradition of lamenting the weather, instead savouring the cocktail of sizzling heat and sultry idyll with which we have been provided.  So much  so that I thought this called for a sultry and sizzling pop reference.  Who perfectly encapsulates the two?  It could only be, Kylie Minogue.  All The Lovers... of stylish t-shirts must surely have noticed her Jean Paul Gaultier number from her recent single, and, here at Chic Cheat HQ, we couldn't possibly overlook it.

Total Cost


About £3-£3.50... probably about a hundredth of the original price!

Hours

About 3 hours.

You will need

  • A white t-shirt, available for as little as £2 courtesy of Primark

  • 20cm White stretch fabric anything from jersey to lycra, as long as it stretches.  Synthetic fabrics tend to be cheaper, and there's no need to push the boat out on this one.

  • 1.5m white bias binding - I say 1.5 to b on the safe side, but in most instances, I'd say you'd be fine with 1m.

  • Pins

  • Scissors

  • Sewing machine... I say this is a £3  project, because that's the sort of price the raw materials come to.  However, you are going to need one of these, and if you do need to buy one, this exercise may prove to be something of a false economy!

Method


Cut away the middle of the T-shirt so that there is only an area of fabric about 10cm wide on each side.




Cut tour stretch white fabric into strips about 20cm long.  You will probably notice that if you cut your strips one way, across the width of the fabric they will fray and disintegrate, whereas if you cut them across the length of the fabric, they can stretch without fraying.


Cut trial strips in both directions and, when you find a way that works best, cut 15-20 strips.

Pin your strips at the edge of the fabric so that they go across the middle of your t-shirt, forming X shapes around the bust and towards the bottom.



When you're happy with the way you've pinned your fabric strips, fold your bias binding in half and pin it over the raw edges.  Machine stitch it in place and you should have a t-shirt that looks something like this...




...And that you hold now, in your mortal hands, the clothing of a modern-day Aphrodite.Wear it with some black hotpants and a bandeau bra to look like the real McCoy and you've got it - wow wow wow WOW!!!

Wednesday, 2 June 2010

Erdem on the Street

With luxurious embellishment, textures and detailing on the fabulous menu for next season, where better to start than a nice snuggly jumper!



Difficulty

Would have been...

... reasonably easy, but it proved to be...


... a difficult one in this particular instance.

The reason?  Interfacing - or lack of it.  That's right readers - despite my many years of sewing experience, believe it or not, I still have my off days and am subject to the odd bad idea and/or naive mistake.  What I should have done was to use interfacing.  Interfacing is the name given to a thin white textile you attach to the wrong side of your fabric - or, in this case, garment - that is, the unseen side of the garment, the side you choose not to exhibit to the world and parade to all and sundry.  You can attach it by stitching it on or, as I prefer, ironing it on.  This, in turn, makes the fabric of your customisable jumper easier to sew and embroider your design on, by preventing it from stretching out of shape. Everybody's free to use interfacing.   The benefits of interfacing have been proved by scientists, one presumes, or at the very least by seamstresses, whereas the rest of my advice has no basis more reliable than my own meandering.  If you're reading this wondering what the random allusion to scientists vis-a-vis interfacing was in aid of, wonder no more. It's a reference to Baz Luhrmann's spoken word - ahem - classic hit single, Everybody's free to wear sunscreen.  Eleven years ago to this day, this shameless plagiarism of Chicago Tribune columnist, Mary Schmich's wise prose read out over a background of innocuous elevator music , courtesy of Mr Luhrmann, reached number one in the UK charts shifting a respectable 206,000 copies (thank you, Wikipedia!).  I can only feel old in the light of those eleven precious years flying past, because I remember said event like it was yesterday...and I feel even older because this time around, I actually find myself identifying with the lyrics.  And so, to mark this momentous commemoration, examples of note from the speech include:

"Enjoy the power and beauty of your youth..., in 20 years you’ll look back at photos of yourself and recall in a way you can’t grasp now ... how fabulous you really looked….You’re not as fat as you imagine"  If, like me, you look back at said photos and don't feel any less ugly in them than you did the first time around, and, furthermore, dread where the future will take you in the looks department, one word remains for me to say:  Photoshop!

"Don’t worry about the future; or worry, but know that worrying is as
effective as trying to solve an algebra equation by chewing
bubblegum. The real troubles in your life are apt to be things that
never crossed your worried mind; the kind that blindside you at 4pm
on some idle Tuesday."  I wonder if the the possibility ever once idly occurred to anyone that air travel might someday grind to a halt on account of a volcano almost 2000km away... or that the up-and-coming generation of graduates would have their future sabotaged, as from 2008, by the worst recession since records began, for reasons way beyond their control and with nothing whatsoever to do with them - oh no, hang on, that one did, to Vince Cable.

"Be kind to your knees, you’ll miss them when they’re gone."  I'd imagine so, especially if the loss of said knees entails an unfortunate run-in in a dark alley in Peckham, Moss Side or Norris Green - ouch!

"Enjoy your body, use it every way you can…" Nuff said - insert your own gag, if you wish!

"Work hard to bridge the gaps in geography and lifestyle because the older you get, the more you need the people you knew when you were young."  How times have changed.  Simple response to that one:  Facebook!  Quick - before they all un-subscribe!

"But trust me on the sunscreen"... Amen.

Enough of this hypothetical hullabaloo, for now - we've got fabulous new looks to recreate... just trust me on the interfacing!

Hours

Round about 20, give or take.

Number of expletives shouted at sewing machine

Ball-park figure?  About 50.  Again, during a complex part of the method, owing to the lack of interfacing.

Total Cost

Mine set me back £18 but you'll need interfacing, so methinks you're looking within the region of £20.

Save It!

...Making it exactly £900 cheaper than the original.

You will need

  • Jumper in dark red, deep wine or maroon. Charity shops would be your first port of call for bargains under a fiver.  Mine set me back £4.50.

  • Shiny rayon Gutermann thread in:



£1.99 ea. at Hobbycraft

  • Gutermann Light blue top-stitch thread, similar in colour to the light turquoise reel £1.35.

  • Scalpel

  • Half a metre of marbled brown, orange and blue fabric -satin or chiffon will do, synthetic is fine and tends to be cheaper.  Mine cost £3.

  • Sewing machine

  • Needle and thread

  • Unpicker, known sometimes as a seam ripper, but we won't be ripping any seams for this, not today.

  • Tailor's chalk Available at all good haberdashers, especially if you ask Taylor nicely.

  • Iron, it might help if you've also got an ironing board.

  • And, lest we forget, half a metre of iron-on interfacing

Method

Turn your jumper inside out, cut your interfacing so that it covers most of the front and iron it on.

With your interfacing on the "wrong" side of the garment, turn your jumper right-side-out again.

Cut a flame-like design roughly as wide as the jumper and about ten small petal and butterfly-shaped pieces about 2-4cm in length.


Tack stitch (i.e. roughly hand-stitch) your flame design near the bottom of the front of the garment, with the butterflies rising from the top, like those on the original.




 Image: Firstview

Load your sewing machine with the brown thread.  Set your sewing machine onto a zig-zag stitch, the wider the better, and if you could get your stitches to be as close together as possible, that would also be an advantage.



Go around the flame design and your petal-shaped pieces.

Repeat this process with the zig-zag stitch going around the butterfly shapes in your light turquoise. You can also do some butterfly shapes within your flame design.  Take your tack-stitching out.

Now for the butterflies' "bodies." I find it helps to mark out a shape with tailor's chalk on each butterfly. Load your sewing machine with your orange thread, set it back onto a straight stitch and run your machine, stitching back and forth along the space until the area is covered. Repeat this on the rest of your butterflies.

You might like to add some blue onto the wings of your butterflies with your top-stitch thread.  Stitch, again, with a straight stitch covering part of each "wing" until your thread runs out.

Finally, for the yellow flecks.  Draft out some small ovals about 2cm in length with your tailor's chalk, on the edge of your petals and in your flame.  Fill them in using the yellow thread, covering the area by machine-stitching, as before.

Follow these instructions and you should be left with something looking like this:


Sunday, 23 May 2010

Get Kaned!





As much as I love to keep up with the trends - and, of course, celebrate them in this little blog of wonders, one fad of the age I very much resent is the advent of text speak.  I'm not saying it shouldn't exist, being the slowest texter in the history of mankind I need to abbreviate anything I can when texting, but that's just the point; text speak - clue in the title - is a convenient means of shorthand expression for text messages only.  It's not a natural evolution of the English language, and nor should it be treated as such because, if anything, it's a devolution.  Much as I love to embrace modern technology, Microsoft excepted, I found myself at a loss as to whether to laugh or cry  the other day, when I came across a line of grooming products called OMG.  What will they think of next, I can't help but ponder, a line of incontinence pads called PMSL?  This would be a good cue for your gran to question what the world is coming to now that our beloved tongue has given way to lazy, incomprehensible gibberish, and she'd have a point!  A trend your nan possibly would more likely approve of, though I wouldn't, would be those charming "vintage style" floral prints all over the high street.  I don't have an issue with florals per se, I just feel like floral prints on the high street have become like a mild-but-irritating cold.  Even when you expect them to have gone away and rationalise that you and everyone around you is over them, they just seem to hang around and never entirely shift.  Simply put, I just feel like florals have reached a boring, predictable cul-de-sac.  Time to inject some inspiration from the couture crowd, methinks, work some Chic Cheat magic and bring it to the masses.  I found the perfect answer and the very kick up the arse the floral trend has been crying out for in Christopher Kane's brand spanking new collection from Fashion Week, spanking being the operative word.  No pansies in floaty frocks for his latest, oh no.  He teamed intricately embroidered floral designs with curve-gripping lace and body-conscious armoury of leather panelling, reworking the look and striking the perfect balance between sexy and girlie like a sparkling pink riding crop on a trussed-up rump.  Oooh, behave!


Harry Potter star, Emma Watson has already rocked the unique Kane-bound trend, and now it's my turn.  Watch and learn...




Difficulty

Hard

...Well, I say hard.  It's mostly pretty straightforward and self-explanatory but it really helps to be skilled at embroidery for this one.  The "hard" verdict was given mostly to cover my arse in this particular instance - something you might want to make extra sure the back panel does for this risqué frock!

Hours

Here's the bad news - we're looking at about 50 - what with embroidery being the mission that it is!  That's about 2 weeks worth of evenings, a social life on the backburner, blood, sweat, tears... but for a potentially fabulous result.

Total Cost

About £40

Save It!

£40 is still just over a forty-fifth of the price of the original.  That's a saving of £1735!

You Will Need

  • Black lace dress- mine cost £28 from New Look

  • 1 metre black silk satin - synthetic will do.  I know the original uses leather, but try embroidering through that by hand and I can guarantee it'll be a nightmare!  I got mine from Hobbycraft at £2.99 per metre

  • Skeins of embroidery thread in the following colours, 85p/ea from Hobbycraft.
  • Black thread

  • Fabric scissors

  • Sewing machine

  • Beading and embroidery needle - like this one.

  • Embroidery hoop - the bigger the better.

  • Metallic gel pen whose ink is visible on dark fabrics.

  • Pattern paper

  • Sewing pins

Let's get Kaned!

First of all you have to cut your lining out of your lace dress if it has any, if you want your version to look authentic - and you dare to bare as much!

Now to draft out your pattern pieces. I got mine by pinning my fabric paper to the front of the dress and folding it into the right shapes, like so...


Your pattern pieces should look something like this...




...For the front and back panel.  And this...



...For the side panels.  Fold your satin and cut out four side panel pieces, and two front/back panel pieces.

Fold your fabric back by a centimetre at the side of each of your satin pieces and top-stitch it at the edge, so that there are no raw edges.

Now to embroider your flower design.  I copied the original by drawing it out before embroidering.


Which I turned into this...


...By getting the following textures:


To cover an area, simply stitch back and forth across it like so.  Make sure your stitches are as close together as possible so that there are no nasty gaps.


You can also stitch back and forth to cover small areas.  This, in turn, can build up quite a nice texture...

...And speaking of texture, you can build it up by doing one set of horizontal stitching on top of the other, like in the picture above.


You can also outline an area by stitching around it.  After you do a stitch and you're about to do the next one, bring your needle back out halfway through the last one, like the stitches in the above pictures.


You can also use the technique of starting each new stitch halfway through the last one to create a rough texture, like the one on the yellow leaf above.

45 crafty hours later, after you've embroidered your beautiful design, you've just got to sew your side panels onto the side of the dress, starting at the bottom, and your front and back panels to the centre of the bottom - and there you have it!


Tuesday, 13 April 2010

The Graceful Dead

Time for the human skull to make a cameo appearance...

Image: Moe Jackson

Alexa Chung.  Model, presenter, TV personality, fashion icon and, of late, skull-bearer - of the porcelain persuasion.  Who could not love her delectably individual style of designer-meets-vintage ...especially when they can get the look for £5.  Yes, 5 of our British pounds - a fiver, or less, if you're lucky with charity shops.  Intrigued?  Read on - and all will be revealed...



Alexa's necklace was one among the many masterpieces of the Italian Jewellery house, Iosselliani.  Its gotta-have-it cachet, I'd say, is down to its ingenious part-glamour-goth, part-vintage, part-precious-costume-jewellery originality (and 18k yellow gold to boot)... not sure if it's worth the asking price tag, though.

Difficulty

Easy

A piece of cake, in principle, but it helps if you're good at modelling - with clay I mean, so modelling of the 3-dimensional variety, not the catwalk one.

Hours

About 2 or 3 of them - hours, that is - required to make a cameo skull necklace, tops.  This has to be one of the simplest Chic Cheat projects I've taken on since starting this blog.

Total Cost

I made two necklaces, one of whose raw ingredients cost me a total of £4 and the other a total of £6, so a fiver per necklace, on average.

Save it!

The Iosselliani original will set you back - wait for it - £850, I kid you not.  Vogue can't be wrong, after all, can it, dear fashionistas?  That, in turn, makes it 170 times what the Chic Cheat solution would cost you, thereby making getting creative 170 more sensible!

You will need

  • A necklace with a plain stone pendant - ch-check out your ch-ch-charity shop for some good bargains.  My necklaces cost £2 and £4 respectively.

  • Classic white Fimo clay About £2 from Hobbycraft.

  • Blue Ink (optional)

  • Contact adhesive

  • Narrow palette knife like the one pictured below:

You knead it in your life...

Cut out a blob about 3 or 4 mm thick out of your slab of Fimo and kneed it to get it soft enough to work with.  What I find helps, at this awkward beginning stage is pounding it hard and slamming it against your desk until it softens... No, of course I don't harbour violent or sadistic tendencies!


When your clay is nice and soft, cut it into a flat skull shape, about 2mm deep or thereabout, and no wider than the stone you have to fit it onto.  You can also use your pallette knife to sculpt the sort of textures that the skull in the original has.




You can dab it with blue ink to make it look like the skull on the original necklace, but be very sparing or it may look cartoon-like.

Bake your clay skull in the oven, for however long you're instructed to - ahem - stick it in.  If you get the Fimo I used, that'd be half an hour.

Finally, after leaving your skull for about five minutes or so to cool down, glue it to your pendant with contact adhesive.

And you should have something which looks like this:


...Or this:


Long live McQueen - Edited Highlights

For some hot fashion rocks, check out the following ankle boots from Alexander McQueen's latest collection:


Want to know how to make some?  Of course you do.  Please read on...

Difficulty

Medium/Easy

I don't want to shoot myself in the foot by promising an easy-as-falling-of-a-log outlook, but I'd say this one was pretty straightforward.

Hours

The work itself is doable in an evening but you may have to allow longer for the paint to dry at the beginning.

You will need

  • Chunky black platform ankle boots mine cost me £15 from Raid

  • Tiger eye stones

  • Gold spray paint

  • Clear lacquer - about £7 from Halfords

  • 2 Broad gold chains - I cut some off hair bands I found on sale at £1 each in Miss Selfridge

  • Black plaited leather rope - about 40p/metre from my local haberdashery

  • 2 carrier bags

  • Parcel tape

  • Glue gun

  • Newspaper


And this is how we do it

Cover your shoes with the carrier bags, except for the heels and bottom of the soles.  Secure the carrier bags in place with parcel tape, making sure you go right up to the edge.

Spray paint the bases and heels of your shoes gold, and also most of your tiger eye stones.  I suggest you do this on your newspaper to avoid damaging any surfaces.  Leave to dry.




After your gold paint has dried, spray on your clear lacquer.  This might well take a day to dry.





Using a glue gun, stick on all of your stones  for about an inch around the ball of the foot of each shoe.




Now for the chains.  If, like me, you used the aforementioned ones from Miss Selfridge, you need to cut away the ribbons and elastics.  Then, you have to take your black leather cord, cut it in half and weave it in and out of your chains.  Secure it with glue at either end.



Glue your chain in a spiral around the heel of the shoe and end it so that it covers the top of the heel.


And there you have it - creative problem solved- it really is that simple.




Monday, 12 April 2010

Rorschach Chic

Feeling uninspired? Maybe it's time to reflect.



Whether it was the recent remake of Alice in Wonderland or fashion's undying affinity for the classic Lewis Carroll story (references of which are too many to mention, and include a collection by the Tim Burton film's costume designer, Sue Wong, herself,  for all those with $300 -$600 at their disposal)  its classic English Rose aesthetic topped off with surrealism remains a favourite among the fashionistas.   Once again, this season, fashion has gone through the looking glass, this time with kaleidoscopic and reflected prints from the likes of Alexander McQueen and Mary Katrantzou, dancing around dress after show-stopping dress.  Here are a few designs from the poignant last collection by McQueen:


Sadly, I've yet to find (or indeed fathom) a way to re-create the elaborate motifs of the above McQueen designs, but I did find a design under the so-called "affordable" fashion category I wanted to copy- the following Karen Millen dress:



... because the flickers of colour were sexy and vibrant, and because the £150 price tag elicited a need to make do and customise.

Difficulty

Medium

Not that the slopping on of paint wasn't extra fun in this exercise, but going for the masterful-not-messy look proved a little more fiddly than expected.

Hours

1-2 hours for the painting.  A day or so to dry, then another hour or so to touch up with black paint.   One more day and a good ironing later, you shall have a rorschach chic dress.

You will need

  • A plain, black short-sleeved dress in a stretch fabric. I found one at H & M for  £10

  • Tailor's chalk

  • Pallet knife -  about £3 from Hobbycraft.  Apologies, for the vague, ball-park figure, readers, but in atypical, non-Chic Cheat fashion I have lost the receipt.

  • Pebeo 45ml Setacolour Opaque Fabric Paints in Cobalt Blue, Bengal Pink and Garnet Red (which is actually, rather confusingly, purple)- £3.79 each from Hobbycraft

  • Magazines, carrier bags or something that isn't porous to put between the two layers of the dress to ensure the pain doesn't seep through.

  • Black Dylon fabric paint - £2 from John Lewis - for correcting smudges.

  • Small paint brush

Total Cost

About £25...

Save it!

...Which is a massive saving of  £125 from the original.

So, you...

Put your magazines or plastic carrier bags between the two layers of the dress.  If you're using the latter, you might want to pin them in place.

Trace out the design you wish to do using your tailor's chalk, on one side of the front of the dress.

Time to slather on your fabric paint with the pallet knife.  Do so fairly generously until all the chalk is covered.


Fold your dress in half so that it is reprinted on the other side and you get an exact repeat of the pattern.

If your paint smudges or you feel you would like to sharpen up your shapes a little, go around any rough edges with your black fabric paint.

Leave your paint to set and fix it by ironing....

...And you should have something resembling this: